Manzanar
"Now, therefore, by virtue of the authority vested in me as President of the United States, and Commander in Chief of the Army and Navy, I hereby authorize and direct the Secretary of War, and the Military Commanders whom he may from time to time designate, ... to prescribe military areas in such places and of such extent as he or the appropriate Military Commander may determine, from which any or all persons may be excluded, and with respect to which, the right of any person to enter, remain in, or leave shall be subject to whatever restrictions the Secretary of War or the appropriate Military Commander may impose in his discretion. The Secretary of War is hereby authorized to provide for residents of any such area who are excluded therefrom, such transportation, food, shelter, and other accommodations as may be necessary,..."
With the issuance of Executive Order 9066, the Secretary of War was authorized to exclude certain citizens and aliens from those areas (e.g. Los Angeles, San Diego, Seattle, etc.) he deemed necessary to protect the nation against espionage and sabotage. The order eventually led to the internment of over 100,000 Japanese Americans in various locations (typically desolate) in seven states including California, Arizona, Colorado, and Utah. Manzanar was the first of ten permanent "relocation sites" to open. At its peak, between the time that it opened in March 1942 and the time that it closed in November 1945, it housed approximately 10,000 confinees.
A National Historic Site
Manzanar was established as a national historic site in March of 1992, at which time, pursuant to the act which created it, it was placed under the wing of the National Park System. Very few of the hard structures that existed during the confinement of the Japanese Americans remain. Signs placed throughout the area mark sites of interest, such as former structures and gardens.
From both the north and the south, Manzanar is reached via Highway 395. Traveling through the Owens Valley along a dreary two-lane highway that passes one deserted ghost town after another, visitors would likely only notice Manzanar's front gate if looking for it. The only visible structure that might otherwise catch the eye is the still standing guard tower built near the highway just north of the entrance.
I was vaguely familiar with the chain of events related to the internment of the Japanese Americans, but, regretfully, never educated myself beyond that vague familiarity. Indeed, I knew very little, and did not know that I would pass by the site upon my return home from a visit to some of the most spectacular scenery this country has to offer.
A Barren Lonely Place
I do not know which affected my experience more, walking among the fragmented remains of the camp after traveling for hours through the barren ruined landscape of the Owens Valley, or doing so after marveling at the grandeur and majesty of Yosemite National Park. I suspect that both contributed to the sobering mood that grew within me as I drove and walked through the site. The clouds, the alternating grey and blue of the sky, and the rays of the sun breaking through and illuminating only small areas of the scrub added to the otherworldly atmosphere.
When approaching from the north, the entrance, marked by a wooden etched sign that reads "Manzanar War Relocation Center", is reached soon after passing the guard tower.
A military sentry post lies just beyond the entrance, a small picturesque structure built by internee and obviously talented stonemason, Ryozo Kado.
Natural Conditions
Most of the area is bleak. The Owens Valley, in addition to being the location of an environmental disaster, lies within the parched rain shadow of the Sierra Nevada. Native vegetation is sparse consisting of sagebrush and creosote bushes scattered throughout the valley floor. Most of the trees and bushes at Manzanar were planted by internees or by previous residents who farmed the area. The introduced flora must be irrigated to survive.
And the temperatures soar in the valley. When we were there it had cooled because of the cloud cover, and so was ninety-plus degrees. Without the cloud cover, I am certain it would have been over one-hundred degrees. Strong winds blow through the valley picking up the loose dust and sand, at times creating hostile dust storms. We saw a few dust devils that formed along the side of the highway as we drove through.
The Buildings of Manzanar
Wooden signs mark where the residential buildings once existed. Old photographs show that the residential buildings were long and placed in closely set rows. With the exception of a few structures, including the military sentry point, most of the buildings are gone.
The foundations of the buildings remain, so in addition to the signs there are concrete slabs where the buildings were, such as in this area where the hospital complex was located.
(You cannot see the slabs clearly in the photograph, but they are visible from the trail.)
The Gardens
Despite the harsh austerity of the landscape, the residents made great efforts to improve their surroundings. Gardens are one of the few things that remain. Gardens of rocks, trees, and small ponds (dry now).
The garden at the hospital was the largest and featured more trees and more rocks than any of the others. There were also folded paper cranes hanging from the trees and some of the bushes.
It was very quiet while we were there. We arrived just before the Interpretive Center closed at ~5:20 p.m., and we were two of only a handful of visitors present. Other than the rushing traffic, which after a short while you begin not to notice, the only noise is from the wind and the occasional eerie laughing and howling of the coyotes. Visitors seem to maintain a respectful quiet, whispering or not talking at all.
I was out of the car when I noticed the hospital garden and walked over to it from the neighboring hospital complex and doctor's quarters. Ken remained with the car, so I was alone when I took the photo above. The wind picked up, and quite unexpectedly, I heard the soft, mournful sound of chimes. I looked around and saw a single chime hanging from one of the trees in the garden. Although it startled me because I did not expect it, the sound was fitting.
The Barracks
I do not believe that the starkness of Manzanar and the sense of desolation, arise solely from the fact that Manzanar has been abandoned. I imagine its grim isolation and barren nature were prevalent even when Manzanar was operational.
After suffering the humiliation and trauma of being forced to leave their homes and belongings at gun point, internees had to face the isolated and severe conditions of the camp. I have read that evacuees arrived within a week after construction of the housing units began. The camp at Manzanar consisted of 36 blocks of barracks. Each block had 14 barracks, latrines, a mess hall, and other facilities. All 36 blocks were confined within an area of one-square mile. The barracks were standard army barracks constructed of wooden frames, boards, and tar paper. It was not long before the harsh arid conditions and the heat caused the wooden structures to dry and caused large cracks in the floors. At times, the floors of several barracks would collapse on the same day.
An immediate problem concerned the lack of privacy. At the beginning of the relocation unrelated families were housed together and in some instances, wives were assigned to room with men other than their husbands. Army latrines were another source of lack of privacy and exemplified the lack of basic necessities, often having a scarce supply of toilet paper, or no toilet paper at all.
One original building has been restored to the camp. In December 2002, a mess hall was returned to Manzanar. The mess hall was placed in block 14 which is to be restored to its original state to commemorate what conditions were like for residents of the camp.
(Original Mess Hall.)
The Cemetery
The most poignant and somber location is the cemetery. In addition to the guard tower, the obelisk located in the cemetery is the most visible and dominating structure at the camp.
The inscription on the front of the obelisk reads "Soul Consoling Tower". Inscribed on the right of the obelisk is "August 1943", and on the left, "erected by the Manzanar Japanese". The obelisk was built by Japanese master stone masons in 1943. Only 15 of 150 people who died at Manzanar were buried in the cemetery. Most internees who died were cremated. Of the fifteen who were buried here, only six sites remain intact. The others were exhumed and relocated by family after the war.
As with other areas throughout the camp, garlands of paper cranes hang from the low post and chain fence that surrounds the obelisk. Within the rocks that surround the posts of the fence are remnants of pottery, glass, and coins. Coins were located on all of the graves, and also on a large rock at the cemetery’s entrance. I tried to discover the significance of the coins, and was only able to learn that a similar practice is performed at Japanese shrines where coins are left as an offering in prayer and as a sign of respect. Each grave is marked by stones, with some more elaborately marked than others.
In addition to the stones, the grave above was marked by a small wooden cross. You can also see the string of paper cranes and the pieces of pottery.
This grave was the most elaborate, with an upright marker and wooden "fence" that was perhaps twelve inches high surrounding it. A wreath of paper cranes surrounds the large stone marker, and another lies at the foot of the grave. You can see the coins strewn throughout.
The entire relocation camp saddened me. The loneliness of the cemetery and of the gravesites saddened me even more, although some are clearly still tended and visited. It saddens me that people--young, old, married, single, all of whom were likely innocent but for the fact of being Japanese--were subjected to the internment. It saddened me more that internees died at the camp and were buried there.
Of all the graves, this one saddened me the most. There was only a small rock, a piece of pottery and a few coins. If a visitor is not observant--and I suppose some have not been--it would be all too easy to walk across this grave and not even know it was there. You can see the footprints of people who have crossed it.
Remembering
Here I must ask the forgiveness of the two gentlemen in the following photo, and I apologize in advance if they are not comfortable with its public posting. I offer the explanation that I believe that adding a personal element provides a means for others to emotionally connect and sympathize with what may otherwise be too unreal. Otherwise, I fear that this sad episode in our national history might be too remotely abstracted and thus easily disregarded.
While Ken and I were viewing the cemetery two cars drove up. A couple exited the first car and walked around quietly, taking a few pictures. From the second car a young man exited accompanied by an elderly man. The two men walked directly to the obelisk and the younger man took a picture of the older man as he stood next to the “soul consoling” tower.
The older gentleman was small of stature, slightly stooped over at the shoulders, and wore slacks and a neat, buttoned shirt. His face was weathered and serious, perhaps contemplative. I thought the posed snapshot unusual, unless one had some sort of personal connection.
After they took their photo, I approached them and asked if they had family who had been in the camp. The younger man informed me that his elderly companion, his father, had been interned in a similar camp in Colorado. He said they were taking a road trip and that his father had wanted to stop at Manzanar. The first thoughts I expressed were that I was very sorry. I simply said, "I am so sorry.", and found myself repeating this several times.
The father told me that he had been eighteen when he was relocated, and that he had lived at the Colorado relocation center for four years. He is now eighty-four. I apologized for intruding, but the son quickly assured me that he thought it very important that people know and remember what happened. I thanked them both and wished them well. The son responded by saying that it was nice to meet me. Actually, it was my pleasure and an honor.
Following this encounter, Ken reminded me that a former co-worker of his had a connection to the camp. The co-worker's mother had been an internee at Manzanar. This person, a California State Park Ranger, would take his mother to Manzanar occasionally to visit and to perform upkeep. For so many, I imagine, the connection will never die. As with other painful experiences, the memory may fade and become background noise, but it inevitably becomes part of the person and forever changes who they are. It is my hope that visiting, restoring, and maintaining the camp may somehow ease the pain of survivors and their loved ones, thereby incorporating the experience into thier composite whole, rather than let it become the sole signifier of their identity.
Revising History
As we were leaving, I photographed a bronze plaque set in stone at the camp's entrance commemorating Manzanar.
It is difficult to see the text in the picture, but it reads:
"In the early part of World War II 110,000 persons of Japanese ancestry were interned in relocation centers by executive order No. 9066 issued on February 19, 1942.
Manzanar, the first of ten such concentration camps was bounded by barbed wire and guard towers, confining 10,000 persons, the majority being American citizens.May the injustices and humiliation suffered here as a result of hysteria, racism and economic exploitation never emerge again."
I took the picture, not to document what I had just seen, but to show what has been done to the plaque itself. You can clearly see the scarring from shotgun blasts and bullets. Across the State of California Grizzly Bear, someone has also scratched "Arbeit macht frei", the slogan which marked the concentration camps of the Third Reich.
While I was further researching Manzanar, I happened across an article about misguided individuals who are attempting to revise the history of what occurred here in a narrative that is strikingly different from documented reality. Some claim that the internees were not forced to leave their homes and relocate to the camps, but did so voluntarily, at the "invitation" of the United States government. Such revisionist accounts claim that Japanese Americans on the East Coast, who were not forced to relocate, were "clamoring" to be able to gain entry to the purportedly resort-like camps. Other claims state that the guard towers were not built to house armed guards to keep people from escaping, but were intended solely as lookouts for wildfires. Similarly, and incredibly, it is further asserted that the barbed wire fence surrounding the camps was intended to keep cows from neighboring ranches out of the camps, not to keep people in.
Ken and I speculated on the motivation behind such claims, which resonate strikingly with the claims of those who deny that six million Jews were exterminated during the Holocaust. Perhaps such sentiments are rooted, not in some misdirection of collective guilt, but simply in a deep abiding resentment toward any sympathy for a minority who suffers great injustice at the hands of the majority. The least we can offer survivors of such injustices is sympathy. They are owed so much more. The recognition of their story must be followed by unfaltering dedication to preserve the memory, thus furthering the understanding of this episode so that we may never repeat a similar outrage.
Leaving Mananar
As we were leaving, I asked Ken to drive me back to the guard tower. (It is a re-creation of an original tower.) When Manzanar was operational, there were eight such towers, each occupied by men armed with submachine guns.
A plaque commemorating another former camp site in Arizona reads:
"May it serve as a constant reminder of our past so that Americans in the future will never again be denied their constitutional rights and may the remembrance of that experience serve to advance the evolution of the human spirit."